Shifting the way it should be

Shifting the Way it Should Be

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. If that truly is the case, then the picture below is worth 1,000 swears. 

The OEM Shifter Housing Bracket and Bushing

 

If you own an MT-82 six speed manual transmission equipped 2011-2013 Ford Mustang, you have probably already experienced the dreaded 3rd or 5th gear lock out. When shifting under load, the shifter housing can torque and cause the shift gate to move out of it's normal position. This will almost always result in a missed shift. It is called deflection. In my experience, it most commonly occurs when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and from 4th to 5th gears. You will know when it has happened from the loud grinding sound and the fact that you are not in the desired gear. It can really make spirited driving more difficult to enjoy.

The culprit of this shifting misfire is the OEM shifter housing bracket and rubber bushing installed at the factory by Ford. The bushing is made of a rather mushy rubber and is held to the shifter housing by a flimsy stamped steel bracket. The combined flexing of these two pieces allows the tailshaft of the shifter housing to move excessively and causes a feeling of sloppiness in the shifter. This sloppiness has no place in the shifting of any performance car. Naturally the owner of a Mustang experiencing this problem would want to remedy the problem as soon as possible.

The only way to dispel your shifting woes is to replace the ineffective OEM shifter housing bracket and bushing. Replacement units are available from Barton Industries, Steeda, and Joe Heck Racing. The Barton and Steeda brackets are both priced around $80 and the JHR bracket can be had for around $50. All three brackets are made to far superior standards than the OEM piece and all three will do a more than adequate job of eliminating the flexing in the shifter housing. The three products are all similar in the fact that they are all made of machined aluminum and use bushings made of rubber or urethane. The Barton unit is a 3 piece design and is the more complicated to install but its quality of construction is very noticeable. The Steeda and JHR units are very similar in design, construction, and installation process.

The JHR Shifter Bracket

With the proper tools and equipment, a home installation can be rather easy to perform. I installed the JHR bracket using only a set of ramps, a flashlight, and a 10mm socket and ratchet. Total time of installation was less than 20 minutes. The end result was smoother shifting and a well defined gate. Combine the new shifter bracket with a new short throw shifter from any of the three bracket manufacturers and your Mustang's MT-82 will feel like a whole new transmission. Your shifts will be short, firm, crisp, and can fall right into place every time. You owe it to yourself and to your Mustang to remedy the shortcoming that Ford overlooked in the stock shifter bracket.

Written By Wayde Sutton
Pictures by Wayde Sutton and Hectic Racing

News

Shelby American Unveils Most Powerful Mustang Ever

 

Carrol Shelby and his team of Mustang nuts have been modifying Ford Mustangs for a long time. For a long time Carrol has had a dream, and the result of that dream has finally come to fruition.

Enter the Shelby 1000. This monstrous concoction comes in two flavors: legal and not-so-legal. The former boasts a beefed up 5.4 liter supercharged V8 producing 950 horsepower. You heard it right, 950 horsepower. Thinking about all that street-legal power in a two-door American sports coupe is just mind boggling. If you are willing to fore-go the legal nature of your automotive endeavors you can be entertained by the fact that the other version of the Shelby 1000 holds an 1,100 horsepower raging beast between it's shock towers. That is 99 more horsepower than the 1.3 million dollar Bugatti Veyron, in a Ford Mustang.

Shelby American will take your 2012 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 and amp it up till it is bursting at the seams with power and performance. They go about accomplishing this feat by completely disassembling the factory 5.4 liter V8 and putting it back together with all new and stronger internal components. The pistons, rods, and crank are all industrial strength and ready to take a beating. The motor is then capped off by new, larger supercharger. The cooling system is improved to handle all the new heat created by the beasts beating heart. Shelby didn't stop there at the motor either. The suspension system is completely replaced and the rear differential is supplanted by a 9 inch unit.

All that new power isn't free. If you already happen to own a $50,000 GT500, Shelby will convert it for you at the low low price of $150,000. If your meager garage doesn't already contain a high-powered GT500, Shelby can provide one for you but the price of the total package inches over $200,000. You better hurry though, this steal of a deal will only be available to a select few. Shelby American is limiting the production of the Shelby 1000 and track-only 1000 S/C to just 50 units each. The mystique of this highly venomous cobra will remain mostly hidden from view due to this exclusivity, but if you are lucky enough to see one on the streets, stand back as the owner's ego may just crush your toes.

Article Written by Wayde Sutton        Picture by Motor Trend

Install: MXP Series Cold Air Intake from Airaid

The new 3.7L Cyclone V6 in the Ford Mustang is quite the little performer. With 305 hp from the factory it has stepped up from being the GT’s puny little brother to a serious contender for the performance minded enthusiast. So if your new star player is gunning for the big boys, why would you make him breathe through a straw? That is exactly what Ford has done with the factory air box. This article will illustrate how to open up the airway and let the Cyclone breathe deep and make some serious performance improvements.
The MXP Series Cold Air Intake system from Airaid will allow your pony to inhale more air and put it to use in the form of more torque and horsepower. The increased efficiency should result in improved fuel mileage, provided you can keep your foot out of the throttle.


Tools needed:
5/32″ allen wrench
3/32″ allen wrench
8mm socket
10mm socket
ratchet and extension
Needle nose pliers
Flat head screwdriver
Airaid has included a #20 Torx bit for your convenience

Installation:


To start, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Don’t worry, you won’t lose your radio station presets or your trip meter readings. Disconnecting the battery will allow your ECU to reset and relearn the parameters that change with the installation of the more free-flowing intake.





Loosen the hose straps on the factory intake where it connects to the throttle body and the air box.










Carefully disconnect the crank case breather hose by releasing the lock on the connector. Swing the hose out of the way. It will pivot at the valve cover. *Disconnect the brake aspirator line in the same manner if your car has an automatic transmission.








Remove the factory intake tube.










Remove the MAF sensor connector by sliding back the red lock tab and pulling the connector free.










Use your 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the bolt securing the factory intake box to the driver side fender well. Retain this bolt as it will be reused later.









Gently remove the factory air box assembly. On the bottom of the air box are two rubber grommets.










Remove these grommets and place them in the holes in the fender well.











Remove the steel sleeved grommet from the side of the intake box and transfer it to the Airaid intake box.










 Install the Airaid intake box into the engine compartment. Make sure the posts on the bottom line up with the rubber grommets in the fender well. Ensure that the intake duct on the air box slides into the duct on the car.
 Install the bolt securing the intake box to the fender well through the steel sleeved rubber grommet you just transferred. Do not fully tighten this bolt as you may need to move the intake box around during a later step.





Use the supplied #20 torx bit to remove the MAF sensor from the factory intake and mount it to the Airaid intake tube with the supplied mounting bolts. DO NOT REUSE THE FACTORY MOUNTING SCREWS.





 
Install the supplied rubber grommet into the Airaid intake tube and then install the metal fitting into the grommet.
If your car has an automatic transmission, you will need to install the plastic hose fitting into the intake tube. If your car is equipped with a manual transmission you will need to install the plastic plug into the remaining hole in the intake tube.





Install the rubber connector and larger hose strap onto the Airaid intake tube. Tighten the hose strap.
Insert the Airaid intake hose into the hole on the air box then rotate it down and connect the rubber hose connector to the throttle body. This step may require you to adjust the positioning of the air box.








Tighten the smaller hose strap around the rubber connector at the throttle body.











Use the allen head screws to attach the intake tube to the air box.












Tighten the 10mm bolt securing the air box to the fender well.












 Reconnect the breather lines to the intake tube.










Reconnect the MAF connector to the MAF sensor. Slide the red connector lock back forward.









Intall the Airaid Synthamax filter onto the Intake tube. Tighten the hose strap attached to the filter.
Install the rubber weather seal to the air box by attaching it at one end and working your way around to the other end.






 Go back and check to ensure all bolts, screws, and straps are tight, but not overly tight.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.








That concludes the installation of the MXP Series Cold Air Intake System by Airaid

Clean Air for Better Mileage

Gas prices are projected to top $5 per gallon this year. With that thought in mind, plenty of Americans are trying to maximize the distance they can travel per gallon of gas in their cars. Many suggestions for ensuring you get the most out of your fuel include making sure your tires are properly inflated and using good quality gasoline.

One area that often gets overlooked in spite of its ability to greatly affect your fuel mileage is your car's air filter. This essential part of your car's induction system plays a vital role in protecting your engine from harmful contaminants. The filter is designed to keep dirt, dust, grime, and other pollutants from entering into your engine's intake. If introduced inside your engine, these particles can mix with the air/fuel mixture and really gunk up the works. Buildup inside dirty engines can cause fuel injectors and valves to function improperly as well as disrupt the flow of air through your motor, hampering its efficiency and decreasing your fuel mileage. Dirty air can also cause fuel to burn improperly and result in reduced power and performance.

It's easy to see the importance of keeping your engine's internals clean and efficient. You can help to ensure that this happens by always having a clean air filter working inside your air box. If you do have a dirty or clogged air filter, replacement is relatively simple and quick. Follow these steps to check and if necessary replace your air filter:

1. Locate your vehicle's air box. It will be under the hood of your car, connected to the intake tubing. Some vehicles have it clearly labeled while others may not.

The air box is the rectangle shaped plastic box on the right side of this photo.

2. Locate and release the clips securing the lid or cover to the airbox. Different vehicles have different ways of making sure the airbox stays closed, so look for something like the clips in the photo. Your car may have fewer or more than the two in this application.

This airbox is secured by two metal clips seen on the right in this photo.

To release the clips, simply use your thumb to pop them off.

3. Remove the airbox cover to reveal your air filter. Use caution as some airboxes may have wires and sensors connected to the cover. Move the cover out of the way gently to access the air filter.

 4. Remove the air filter from the airbox housing. Most filters just sit on a rim inside the airbox. Lift one edge to loosen the filter and remove it form the airbox.

5. Inspect your air filter for trash and dirt particles lodged in between the pleats. A lightly used air filter will have some dust and dirt trapped in it, but may still be able to function fine. A gentle shake can dislodge any loose larger sized particles and the filter can be reinstalled. If your air filter has an excessive amount of trash and dirt trapped inside however,  it may be time to replace it altogether. Look in your vehicles owner's manual and visit a local auto parts store to find what filter you need for your vehicle.

This air filter is in need of replacement. (source: knfilters.com)

Some air filters have the model number printed on the side.

6. With the filter out, check the inside of the airbox for loose dust and dirt. If there is any dirt sitting in the bottom of the airbox, clean it out with a damp cloth.You may encounter larger stuff like leaves or dead bugs. Make sure to get those out of there also as they can easily block air flow.

This airbox is mostly clean and ready for a new filter.

7. With your clean or new replacement air filter, install it into the airbox the same way it was removed. Be sure to align it properly so the airbox cover can form a good seal.

Most filters will only fit in the air box one way. Make sure the filter sits properly in the airbox before replacing the cover.

8. Align the tabs on the airbox with the tab slots on the cover and place the cover back on the airbox. Improper alignment will not allow the cover to close properly.

This airbox has two tabs seen here on the left.

The tab slots on the cover should line up with the tabs on the airbox.

Proper alignment should look like this.

9. With the cover back in place, snap the clips back that hold down the cover.

A properly reinstalled airbox cover with clips in place.

With the cover back in place you are done. The clean air filter will better protect your engine and ensure that you are getting optimal airflow. Better airflow leads to better fuel mileage.

Replacing your air filter is part of the scheduled maintenance for your vehicle and should be performed in accordance with your manual's listed intervals. If you frequently operate your vehicle in excessively dusty environments or idle for extended periods of time, it may be necessary to replace your filter sooner than called for in the maintenance schedule.  

Welcome

Welcome to the future home of Modern Home Garage! This page will play host to my upcoming blog about how to make the most of your car. I will demonstrate using my 2012 Mustang V6 how the modern do-it-yourself motorist can modify and maintain their vehicle to maximize the fun and joy that comes from automobile ownership. Check back here often for tips and tricks and product reviews Thanks!